| 600 Multi Class MOTOR RECOMMENDATIONS
After much research we have again changed our oil recommendations. The previous Castrol oil is now being replaced with a even higher quality oil in a different grade. We spent many months researching this, and consulting with some of the nation's top lubrication engineers and oil lab guys. We have concluded that with the stress's involved in a modern 600 micro-sprint engine, that we should be recommending only the very best 100% synthetic "competition grade" oil. We have all seen a 600 motor spin a rod bearing from time to time, even stock ones. I feel that if by recommending the very best oil we can, and it saves motors, it will be worth any extra expense. This oil we now use was designed for 24hr endurance racing. If you race with another type oil in it and it comes apart- Well,.... we warned you…………… We now have the new oil in stock and offer a special discounted price by the case. We have also recently changed our break in procedures. Please contact us for full details. The motor is ready to start after you add oil. Most R6's take about 3 qts plus a couple ounces more. Fill to the upper line of the dipstick-fully screwed in. Re-check after first startup. Ask or see our website about our new FTZ Oil Cooler-this is a "must have" to prevent overheating the oil. Even the best oil overheated can blow your motor. Say you can't afford the cooler? Our advice is to stay home until you can, as then you sure can't afford a blown motor. Use only Honda (or OEM) Oil filters...We keep them in stock. many others don't seem to filter or flow as well. DO NOT use Yamaha oil filters. Use a 25% antifreeze 75% water mix (But don't let it freeze up in winter!) Also use some water wetter additive if it's running hot. The motor should not be allowed to run over 210 deg. If it does, then you need to work on your cooling system. Run your top radiator hose flat or uphill all the way to the radiator or it could air lock. You should use 1" hose and be sure fittings have at least 3/4" hole through them (7/8" would be better). Avoid tight 90 degree fittings. Call if you need more help. Start the motor with the radiator cap off and immediately look to see if the water is flowing vigorously. The level will drop and you will see the temp gauge rising. IF NOT- shut it down immediately as there is air in the water lines that needs to bled out to prevent damaging the motor. If the level doesn't fall then it is not circulating. |
We shoot for between 190 and 210 degrees water temp. Our digital water temp gauge works real well for these motors, it reads from 0 degrees up, instantly. IMPORTANT!; Warm the motor up to 180-190 degrees, for a good while, before it running hard as this warms the the oil as well as the water. You can burn a cam or the wrist pins otherwise. Also remember that it takes about twice as long to warm the oil as it does the water. We highly recommend you install an oil pressure gauge. Sometimes you will have to rev the motor, when it first starts, to get any oil pressure- Do not let it set and idle slow. Always keep a fast idle anyway or the cams jerk around. At certain rpms (fast idle) the slides in the FCR Downdraft carbs rattle like crazy, don't worry, it's not the valves or cam chain. We have low pressure on-demand fuel pumps that don't require a regulator or bypass. We use two of them side by side to insure fuel delivery. A fuel pressure gauge is also a good idea. **We now have a new higher pressure fuel system which is even better- and a "must" for using Flatslide carbs. Call for more details. We strongly recommend running a 32:1 mix of gasoline and synthetic 2-stroke oil such as Castrol TTS (also in stock and on sale $4.99 a bottle) thru the carbs & motor at the end of the weekend to eliminate rust on the bores and having to clean the carbs as often. Pump gas does not store well, gums up quickly. Race gas is much better. We recommend using at least 1/2 ounce per gallon of Uplon top or upper lube in your methanol fuel. The blue tinted VP methanol is very good stuff and worth the extra cost. Gap the plugs at .020". We only use CR10e's (in stock) We shim the valve clearances to about .005" to .007" intake, .007" to .010" exhaust. Recheck after the 1st race, then every 6 races or so. You should learn to do this- it will let you know ahead of time if you need an adjustment or a "freshen up". All 600's will benefit from our FTZ step-header exhaust system. It will pull harder and it will make it much easier to jet or fuel map to. Dyno tested by everybody to be the best. We recommend that the motor gets freshened after 10-15 races. Good luck at the races, Jon & Alex |
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