| 600 Multi Class MOTOR RECOMMENDATIONS
After many years we have recently changed our oil recommendations. The previous 20w-50 oil is now being replaced with a higher quality oil in a slightly thinner grade. I spent many hours researching this, and consulting with some of the nation's top lubrication engineers and oil lab guys. We have concluded that with the stress's involved in a 600 micro-sprint engine, that we should be recommending only the very best 100% synthetic "Competition" motorcycle oil. We had tremendious luck with the previous Castrol V-twin oil in the Hondas and can still recommend it for that application. (now save $20 a case on any 20w-50 oil in stock!) We have all seen even a stock 600 R6 spin a rod bearing from time to time. I feel that if by recommending the very best oil we can, we save even a single motor, it will be worth any extra expense. Again the motorcycle oils contain additives that resist shearing as it is pumped thru the wet clutch and transmission. These are not included in an automotive oils. You should still change the oil & filter every 2 to 4 races. If you race with automotive type oil in it and it comes apart- Well.... We told you so! We now have the new oil in stock and offer a special discounted price by the case. We recommend to break in the motor with a petroleum automotive oil, such as Castrol GTX 10w-40, for 30 to 45 minutes, driving the car in gear if at all possible. Use short bursts of full throttle under a load, then change the oil and filter to the racing synthetic oil and go racing. After that change the oil & filter every 2-4 races. The motor is ready to start after you add oil. It takes about 3 qts. Fill to the upper line of the dipstick-fully screwed in. Re-check after first startup. Use only Honda (or OEM) Oil filters...We keep them in stock. many others don't seem to filter or flow as well. DO NOT use Yamaha oil filters. Use a 25% antifreeze 75% water mix (But don't let it freeze up in winter!) Also use some water wetter additive if it's running hot. The motor should not be allowed to run over 210 deg. If it does, then you need to work on your cooling system. Run your top radiator hose flat or uphill all the way to the radiator or it could air lock. You should use 1" hose and be sure fittings have at least 3/4" hole through them (7/8" would be better). Avoid tight 90 degree fittings. Call if you need more help. |
Shoot for between 190 and 205 degrees water temp. Our digital water temp gauge works real well for these motors, it reads from 0 degrees up, instantly. IMPORTANT!; Warm the motor up to 180-190 degrees before running hard. You can burn a cam or the wrist pins otherwise. Also remember that it takes about twice as long to warm the oil as it does the water. We highly recommend you install an oil pressure gauge. Sometimes you will have to rev the motor, when it first starts, to get any oil pressure- Do not let it set and idle slow. Always keep a fast idle anyway or the cams jerk around. At certain rpms (fast idle) the slides in the FCR Downdraft carbs rattle like crazy, don't worry, it's not the valves or cam chain. We have low pressure on-demand fuel pumps that don't require a regulator or bypass. We use two of them side by side to insure fuel delivery. A fuel pressure gauge is also a good idea. **We now have a new higher pressure fuel system which is even better- and a "must" for using Flatslide carbs.Call for details. We strongly recommend running a 32:1 mix of gasoline and synthetic 2-stroke oil such as Castrol TTS (also in stock and on sale $4.99 a bottle)thru the carbs & motor at the end of the weekend to eliminate rust on the bores and having to clean the carbs as often. Pump gas does not store well, gums up quickly. Race gas is much better. We recommend using at least 1/2 ounce per gallon of Uplon top or upper lube in your methanol fuel. The blue tinted VP methanol is very good stuff and worth the extra cost. Shim the valve clearances to about .005" to .007" intake, .007" to .010" exhaust. Recheck after the 1st race, then every 6 races or so. You should learn to do this- it will let you know ahead of time if you need an adjustment or a "freshen up". With the 600cc carbs we found that most airboxes restrict air flow, hence the tall filters on our top guy's cars (We have them and outerwears in stock). Call for recommendations. Gap the plugs at .020". We only use CR10e's (in stock) All 600's will benefit from our FTZ step-header exhaust system. It will pull harder and it will make it much easier to jet or fuel map to. We recommend that the valves & valve seats get freshened about every 15 to 20 races, Most guys get their bottom ends rebuilt at least every winter. Good luck at the races, Jon |
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